The Room Fall 2017: Tailoring Takes a Turn
Menswear-inspired tailored pieces share the stage this fall with trimmer shapes in luxurious fabrications.
Elements of tailoring permeated every aspect of the fall runways, from sharply cut dresses to versatile separates. Designers played with material and liberally added embellishment. Traditional fabrics gave way to more fanciful offerings like velvet, and in the case of Mary Katrantzou, printed velvet (shown above). She “worked with Disney to borrow motifs from the film [Fantasia], poring over stills until she found what suited her honeyed world. A coquettish ‘centaurette,’ her tail braided by cherubs, was printed on a double-breasted velvet suit, piling richness on richness.” wrote Matthew Schneier for The New York Times.
For a label like The Row, which favours incremental evolution and reworking of signature shapes and themes, the season brought a tighter focus and put a spotlight on the stand-out coats in their collection. “Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen’s big emphasis this season was outerwear; the coat is your calling card in New York, a point the sisters made clear in the duster-length styles they wore while greeting people preshow,” wrote Vogue’s Nicole Phelps.
Christina De Marchi (@christinademarchi), a gallery sales director and museum consultant, works tailoring into her professional and everyday wardrobe. “I’m comfortable in oversized, boxy menswear-inspired tailoring and button-down Oxford shirts with interesting silhouettes. Pieces like this make me feel polished, and nothing is sexier than a well-tailored trouser.”
Designer Joseph Altuzarra often finds inspiration in specific cultural references, and this season it was Renaissance paintings from Northern Europe. He told Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, “It was a time when people became interested in how people really looked.”
The subtle details of those paintings come through in the richly textured fabrics and layers of embellishment in the Altuzarra Fall 2017 collection. Even the lace-up combat boots that appeared on his runway had pearls sewn onto their eyelets.
“It’s amazing that even today it feels deliciously subversive to wear tailoring. I love the feeling of structure and power that a great tailored look bestows,” gushed writer Anita Clarke (@geekigirl).
In only three seasons since launching the debut Atlien collection, young French designer Antonin Tron has distinguished himself through his mastery of jersey, which comprises most of his collections. “He showcased his exemplary skills in manipulating jersey to a dazzling grown-up effect. It was fused and then tailored into strict-shoulder jackets that stayed close to the body,” wrote Vogue’s Mark Holgate.
Incorporating elements of tailoring and draping, and mixing athletic fabrics with flocked floral inserts, Tron, who won the ANDAM First Collections prize last year, is pushing the boundaries of a tried-and-true material and creating a truly original aesthetic, no small task in the crowded field of design talent showing today.
Considering all the different tailoring directions you could take this season, it’s important also to accessorize accordingly. The Point asked stylist Alon Freeman for his advice:
“Let the spirit of the tailoring speak to you and style accordingly. The body-skimming precision of the season’s more ladylike offerings beg for shapely, feminine accessories in ruched and ruffled leather and a sexy, strappy heel. The structured drape, measured volume and rich wool suiting fabrics of fall’s menswear-inspired pieces harmonize best with minimally embellished molded leather goods and bold blocky hardware. Shoes in hard, shiny leathers will punctuate the layers of luxuriant wool.”
No matter the tailoring option you choose, walk out the door with confidence and enjoy the feeling of a piece perfectly suited to your personal style.